"Espiadimonis” (Dragonfly, in Catalan) is the route’s name.
The wall is called "Serranía Avalancha", in the Chilean Patagonia. Its graduation is A4/6b and 1300 meters climbed until where the wall lost its verticality. From there 200 meters height to the summit (max IV +), easier terrain with some stretches of snow.
After fixing the first 350 meters to the first wall camp, I stayed 32 days on the wall alone, without descending (from 8th February to 10th March). Of the 32 days, 16 were spent in the portaledge without being able to climb or even move.
The wall of Serrania Avalancha emerges from a lake. To access it I had to use an inflatable boat. There was already the route Araucania on the wall, but the line did not reach the summit, which was virgin.
The approach is through a Valdivian forest and we had to use a machete to cut a trail. The hike in takes about 8 hours, if you know where to go, crossing a pair of wild rivers. I hired two climbers who helped me with the haulbags; we did two carries of about 25 Kg each. On the descent I did five 25 Kg carries by myself.
I spent nearly two months alone, often in the rain that lasted for days, transforming the wall, a natural funnel, into a waterfall that made it impossible to climb or even rappel due to the force of the water. During these periods I had frequent doubts about whether I could get to the top of the wall, or if it would be possible to descend. As always I went without any means of communication, no telephone, no radio, no weather reports and was completely cut off from the outside world.
After climbing and once I started carrying the haulbags down (it took a week), I realized that I could not cross the swollen rivers. I had to wait four days and just got lucky to have three consecutive days with no rain that dropped the river level enough to let me across.
There are plenty of situations and anecdotes to tell of the nearly two months, but the climbing was less important than the experience of being alone on a remote wall, often trapped by the weather.
During the three days of abseiling I had lots of problems with stuck ropes, and had to cut my rope and abandon it several times. I tried my best to recover the ropes but nothing worked. I say this because for me that is rubbish that remains there. On the lake I found a hut with trash. Given the remote and pristine nature of the area, this was a shocking—I think these kind of things are what really matters.