Everything has a beginning and participation in the Raiverd (MultiAdventure Marathon) lead to first contact with the climbing world.
From there a number of different wall ascents in Spain and abroad.
New routes, significant repetitions, solo ascents or with a partner/s, depending on the moment, the motivation and the need.
On the nearest walls, next to home: Montserrat, Roca Regina, Montrebei, Vilanova de Meià, Terradets…
To further walls: Himalaya (India), Karakorum (Pakistan), Baffin island (Canadá), Cordillera Blanca (Andes, Perú), Patagonia (Argentina and Chile), Main de Fatma (Mali, Africa), Turkey, Thailand…
Last one has been, a solo expedition, in the Chilean Patagonia. Cerro Chileno Grande. “Sincronia Màgica” is the route’s name. A month and a half in a remote vally, loading 150 kilos of gear and supplies to climb a 1.200 meters virgin peak and 33 days remaining on the vertical.
Previous adventure was in Alaska. Arrigetch Peaks, Xanadu. To put up the new route “Un pas més”. 36 days carrying the equipment, up and down, to spend two months in the area. 17 days living on the wall.
A long expeditions list; with climbing partner or alone. But always incommunicado; no radio, no phone, no GPS
Emphasis on repetition of the routes “Mirall Impenetrable” (A5) and “Vudú” (A4+) on the wall of Aeri de Montserrat, both with Pep Masip and the second also with Pere Vilarasau.
And “Silenci” (A5/6b+) on the Ecos wall of Montserrat, with Eloi Callado.
“Incontinència d’Inconsciència“, Montrebei, (A5) with Pep Masip and Miquel Puigdomènench.
A little further.
Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu), Asturias.
Solo ascent of “Principado de Asturias” (A4). Awarded the “Piolet de Oro” (Golden Ice Axe) of the FEDME (Spanish Mountain Federation)
In 1998 a new route in the winter “Tramuntana” (A4+/7a+) with 11 bivouacs, partnered by Pep Masip.
Also the repetition of the mythical “Sueños de Invierno” (A4+) with Oscar Cacho.
And still further.
A few trips to Yosemite National Park (California) to climb El Capitan and other walls in the area.
Repetitions of “Mescalito“, “Zenyatta Mondatta“, “Sea of Dreams“, “The Shield” and “Reticent Wall” (A5) on El Capitan.
Solo ascents of “Zodiac” and “Wyoming Sheep Ranch” (9 bivouacs) on El Capitan.
And a new route on the Porcelain Wall “Sargantana” (A4) with Pep Masip.
And where the climbs become something more than the ascent.
Because of the remote locations, the differences of cultures and the isolation…
The Himalaya (India), Karakorum (Pakistan), Baffin Island (Canada), Cordillera Blanca (Andes, Peru), Patagonia (Argentina and Chile), Main de Fatima (Mali, Africa), Turkey, Thailand…
Three trips to the Karakorum, Himalaya, Pakistan.
To the Nagma valley, relatively unknown at the time.
Brakk Zang‘s first ascent, opening the route “Ganyips“.
Returning a year later with Pep Masip and also Miquel Puigdomènech to open the route “Sol Solet” (1,650m A5-A5+/6c+/60degrees) on Amin Brakk (5,850 meters altitude). 32 consecutive days on the wall.
And “Life is Lilac” (A4+ 6a) on Shipton Spire, 21 days alone on the wall.
The Indian Himalaya.
In the Miyar valley, two new routes.
The first with Eloi Callado, “Mai Blau” on Neverseen Tower.
And the second, a solo ascent of Castle Peak by the route “7 d’Espases“.
A third trip to the Kinnaur valley, a solo climb of a virgin wall located in the Kailash Parbat massif. “Naufragi” (1.050 meters, A4+), 25 days on the wall.
In a different climate, travelling to the Arctic Circle on Baffin Island (Canada) with Frank Van Herreweghe, we opened the route “Sangtraït” on Turnweather Peak.
In 2009, Mount Asgard by the route “The Belgarian” with Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Stéphane Hanssens.
A first foray to the Andes, Huascaran North (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) with Youri Cappis to climb a new route on the East face, “Entre Boires” 930 meters and 18 days on the wall.
Three more solo ascents:
In Chilean Patagonia. Specifically in Serranía Avalancha. 32 days on the wall to put up a new route called “Espiadimonis”.
In Alaska. Arrigetch Peaks, Xanadu. “Un pas més” is the route’s name. I spent 36 days carrying up and down (540Km.) the food and equipment (150 kilos) for two months. 17 days living on the wall.
Back in Chilean Patagonia, on Cerro Chileno Grande (Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael), to establish a first route on the wall (1.200m.) “Sincronia màgica”. 33 days hanging on the vertical plus 3 weeks loading the supplies. But adventure has been to return bak and find a changed world, due to covid 19.
Thanks to all of my climbing and/or travel partners (cited or not) for the good moments.
And the copperheads, hooks and pitons; for holding me up.